PowerBook KBD Hacking?

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jt
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I'm using one from a 1400cs in a hack, the rigidity of the frame makes it perfect for my application. I’d like to know it anyone has disassembled and reassembled one of these things or a similar KBD. I'll check for HowTos and FAQs, but practical experience/advice about PB KBDs is the kind of feedback I'm looking for here. Links to any kind of related stuff out there would be appreciated.

How does this strategy sound?

1) remove all the Keycaps and hardware from the front.
2) place it upside down on a drill press
3) drill out the heatstakes/preparing the holes for tapping
4) flip it back over/examine the mayhem wreaked upon a perfectly good KBD
5) create a new bottom layer membrane with a thin PCB
6) repair or print a new top membrane layout (that SS ink is EXPENSIVE!)
7) drill and countersink plastic base/PCB combo
8] add strategically placed holes for longer machine screws
9) tap the aluminum KBD frame

. . . and finally, reassemble KBD using short and longer machine screw (standoffs & chassis mounting) where appropriate. Somewhere in there I might experiment a little bit with spot welding aluminum framing parts to the KBD base.

. . . unless of course, just spot welding lotsa crap onto the back to begin with and converting the existing matrix into a mappable circuit and an ADB controller’s matrix input would be easier!

jt Evil Block Company

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g3head's picture
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What's this for?

Did any one catch the reasoning behind this hack? All I got from that was JT's thinking about another wild hack

jt
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If I take 'em off . . .

. . . will I be able to put 'em back? The service manual said nothing about keycap replacement.

Who said anything about "wild" hacks, no indication was meant to be given as to purpose, I was just asking for a little assistance.

jt Wink

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g3head's picture
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More than likely

Every powerbook keyboard I've come across can be taken apart and reassembled, at least down to the metal frame/key matrix part (1x0, wallstreet, and the 5x0s) I think the 1400's KB is close to a 5x0's so it should be fairly easy. Just keep track of all the pieces. Some like to fly away when you pry them out.

jt
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Still no confirmation . . .

. . . I don't believe this, NOBODY here or at the barracks has EVER pulled a 1400 key and put it back? I'm pretty sure it's safe to ASSUME it'll be OK, but I haven't assumed anything about an Apple product since I got burned on the Quadra 630's disappearing serial port, that was one of the Macs I bought new and I NEEDED three serial ports and bought one as a backup machine when I was having some trouble running a big job on my IIx/Rocket. It worked out great for a machine in the kid's room where i could work at night if I needed to, but boy was I ever TICKED OFF!

Come on! Somebody should know this one for a fact, will they go back on or not?

jt ?

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p.s. Since you were curious and I've let enough slip out in other threads so I'll fess up. This one is progressing VERY NICELY, not just in the old noggin' either, the lid plastics of my beloved BabyPB have just snapped shut for the first time on a new LCD to sit above the new keyboard, details to follow in a new thread about the PowerBook_100cPPC. Wink

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jt
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Confirmed: It works . . .

. . . just about the way I expected. Right after I emailed mad dog to find out what he knew about this insanity, I went ahead and yanked off about a dozen key caps . . . they do indeed go back on as expected. Which was a good thing, as mad dog replied that he hadn't tried messing with his 1400 KBD yet . . .

The hack procedure above ought to work from either direction, given thorough review and adaptation . . . HEH!

Tapping either the aluminum for screws from the top or the plastic layer for screws from the bottom seems workable at this stage . . . In either case, I'd suggest putting a few tiny, wire gauge registration holes thru the center of lead holes made with a countersink bit in the surface to be tapped from the direction of choice BEFORE just rushing in there to pop off all those little heatstake thingies with the first flat pry tool you can lay your grubby littl . . .

Embarrassed whatever . . . =8-/

••••• T&TC_no_XXX: Incredibly thin drill bits used in combination with push-pins can make working with ABS, Nylon, plexi and sheet metal a lot like constructing balsa wood flying contraptions. Wink •••••

My 1400 KBD isn't back together yet by ANY stretch of the imagination, but Acer Peripherals . . . Shock HEH! Imagine THAT! . . . BLEH! =8-P

whatever . . . placed a convenient hole thru both membrane and dome layers at the location of each heatstake. There is plenty of clearance for drilling, tapping and countersinking operations from either direction, so if you don't want to do a new trace layout, you'd be hard pressed to screw up the original equipment parts . . .

:? . . . well . . . lets put it this way . . . if you have any business mucking around inside a powerbook with drill bits at all, it should be relatively simple. Wink

* shakes head . . . wipes blood off keyboard from a shallow #58 G furrow plowed into the tip of left index finger Undecided *

RIIGGGGHHHHTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wink

Let's be careful in there, people!

jt Evil Block Company

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