Server grade UPS at home

I don't know what you mean by that connector being a speical twist lock, b ut to me the round plug on the ebay auction link looks like a 220v plug, not a 110 v plug, however the closeup on the voltage sticker shows 110 in. So maybe its just a standard 110 plug with a speical twist lock plug that is 110 volts. Google for info...

That is a 110 plug but you need a special outlet or plug adapter, they usually sell them in the pool place. Standard plug on one end and an adapter plug for the special end.

Hope this helps.

Frank

Do you think it would be safe to just wire a washer and dryer to use a standard 110V grounded plug?

You're going to need an electrician.

A good resource for free information (sometimes) could be a local lighting and sound equipment rental company... the first thing to do is identify the plug, then have an electrician wire a new outlet in a convenient place. Make sure the plug fits what they install BEFORE they leave (I've had the wrong outlet installed twice before they got it right).

There seem to be a number of plugs (at least 3 that I know of) that look similar to the one you have there... best to be sure, really sure, before just plugging in adapters.

The input on that sucker is 22 amps, which is much too high for a standard plug, IIRC. If you have 20 amp service in your house, you might be OK, but I wouldn't chance it.

James M. Baker
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Computer Nerd
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My site

http://www.networkcable.com/pages/components/nema_locking.html

What you have there is an "L5-30P".

The equivilant non-locking connectors are detailed here:

http://www.networkcable.com/pages/components/nema_nonlocking.html

It's not uncommon for a house to have a few "5-20R" receptacles, as some larger window air conditioners have the non-locking 20 amp plug. (And the same outlet can also handle "normal" appliances.) But for 30 amps you're probably SOL.

An electrician could probably install one for you, but you'll need all-new wiring all the way back to the breaker panel. (Putting a plug like that in a junction box wired for 15 or 20 amp service could potentially be a serious fire hazard.)

--Peace

The circuit brakers would probally blow before a fire started.

iMac266 (Strawberry), G3 1400 and the G3 IIsi. I want a Tortoise...

The probablies get you very time...

James M. Baker
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Computer Nerd
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My site

>>>The circuit brakers would probally blow before a fire started.

One question...how can it draw so many amps?

Power = Currect X Portential Difference
1800w = A X 120
A = 15amps.

iMac266 (Strawberry), G3 1400 and the G3 IIsi. I want a Tortoise...

Input: 120VAC 22.0AMP 50/60Hz
Output: 120VAC 20.8AMP 50/60Hz (2500VA / 1800W)

You're looking at the output side, not the input (which is used for charging the batteries).
Watts = Amps x Volts
2496 = 20.8 x 120

I assume the "1800W" is the maximum that it can draw from the batteries when the input is off.

Thanks

iMac266 (Strawberry), G3 1400 and the G3 IIsi. I want a Tortoise...

That UPS require 110V 30 amp service. That plug is for a 110V 30 amp socket, which is an industry standard, but not commonly available in houses with 15 amp service. My UPS at work has the same plug and I had to have facilities run a 30 amp circuit to my server rack to run it.

The reason for this is because the battery is SO LARGE that when it's dead, it needs to draw that much current to recharge it within a reasonable amount of time even though 1800 watts is (barely) within the 15 amp limit. If you were running at it's full capacity, there would be no power left to charge the battery.

So, you probably could run it, but after your first power failure it will pop your breaker.

Dr. Bob

Don't forget that it has to be able to charge the battery packs while running at full load.

Dr. Bob

Another thing to keep in mind:

According to electrical code, the sustained load allowed on an AC circuit is only 80% of the breaker capacity. You really *shouldn't* load a 15 amp circuit with more then 12 amps. Depending on the breaker in your house panel and how well the wiring was done there's still a real possibility of starting an electrical fire due to overload without throwing a breaker.

(And with computer equipment, a 12 amp "running load" can still translate to an overload following a power failure, should all the equipment start up at the same time. Computers tend to draw substantially more power then normal when they're spinning their disks up and whatnot. And of course when a UPS is in the circuit you're going to get the load of the charger kicking in.)

--Peace