Applefritter - Project

Digital Spelunking at America Online

Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:18:03 -0700

The ephemeral nature of the web has appalling implications for the preservation of information. Even many once common Mac OS 9 shareware apps are now impossible to find, to say nothing of older and more obscure programs. How many web and ftp sites from 1994 still exist? In the days when BBSes were more popular than the internet, America Online's file libraries rivaled the entire internet in their breadth of files. It was in an effort to determine whether these ancient libraries still existed that I gingerly installed AOL on a spare computer and signed up for an account. My hope was that even though the original keywords for these libraries no longer worked, I might still be able to find a link or url that would take me to the old file library search function, much in the way that it's still possible to access the Apple II forum on AOL by going to keyword: aol://4344:1264.a2main.10029531.514525857. After much effort, I failed to find the search page, but I was able to use the Apple II libraries to understand the url syntax. The url for the Apple II New Files library is aol://4400:8287, and here is the URL for the UnForkIt file, contained in that library: aol://4401:8287:636250. The first value identifies the resource type. In this case, either 4400 for a library, or 4401 for a file. The second number, 8287, is the library ID. 636250 is the file ID. The file IDs are not consecutive within libraries. By changing the library id, it is possible to access file libraries that that no longer have direct links. I began trying random IDs and was soon bookmarking the Connectix Macintosh Library and MacHacks. Many libraries would load immediately. On other occasions I'd get an error message stating no library existed at that ID. Most disturbing were the libraries that AOL's software believed should exist, but that were "not responding". As AOL has moved away from its proprietary Rainman language in favor of html, and sophisticated users have left for the Internet, these old areas of AOL have been abandoned and forgotten. Each file records the date it was most recently downloaded. In many of these libraries, the most recent download was from 1999. In a few, the records have been confused with those for other files — the description will be for a shareware utility, but the file will be a jpeg. Other file downloads fail half way through. The system, it appears, has been left to decay. Nonetheless, the bulk of the files I found were in salvageable condition. The challenge now came of finding all the surviving software libraries and downloading their contents. The AOL application isn't easily scriptable, but QuicKeys can automate it by simulating key combinations and clicks, so I wrote a QuicKeys script to open the "Keyword" window, type in a possible library address, and bookmark the address if it worked. Over a period of several days, this script tried about 70,000 possible library locations. Another QuicKeys script is now visiting each library and downloading the files. To date, 7,236 files have been downloading, filling 4.1GB of disk space. Much more work remains to be done, and volunteers are welcome. Help is needed in the following areas: [list] [*]Downloading files from AOL. This requires a dedicated Mac OS X computer running QuicKeys (or at least the 30-day demo). [*]Writing scripts to check for redundancies and damaged files. [*]Modifying upload scripts so that the files can be added to the file libraries. [/list] If you'd like to get involved, please email [url=mailto:owad@applefritter.com]Tom Owad[/url]

Experiments with the Apple Motion Sensor

Sat, 12 Mar 2005 07:56:19 -0800

Throw your PowerBook off a cliff. As it tumbles, sensors will detect changes in orientation and gravitational force. With this data, your PowerBook will wisely ascertain that all is not well. Faster than you can knock a laptop off a desk, it will swing the hard drive's head away from the platter and park it, preventing a deadly collision with your data. The "Sudden Motion Sensor" in Apple's latest PowerBooks implements this technology. The sensors are not built into the hard drive - they're an integral part of the system, compatible with any drive you install. It's even possible to read the sensor output yourself. [url=http://www.kernelthread.com/software/ams/]Amit Singh[/url] has written several programs that do just that. This is where the fun starts. [url=http://www.kernelthread.com/software/ams/download/AMSTracker.dmg]amstracker[/url] is a simple command-line utility that returns the values for the sensors' x, y, and z axes. X is left/right tilt, y is forward/back, and z is the change in G force. Amit's utility can output these values and then exit or can be configured to provide a continuous stream of data. The trick with a cool utility like this is coming up with a practical application. One possibility is to keep a motion log. Here's a sample in which data was collected every tenth of a second. To produce these values, I let my PowerBook drop about eight inches and then gently caught it. [pre] X Y Z 3 27 49 1 26 51 2 24 53 4 28 49 2 31 49 2 27 53 9 8 16 -6 8 16 9 47 82 11 28 46 5 18 67 -1 22 55 -2 24 51 1 23 49 -1 23 51[/pre] The first indication that something has gone wrong is a major the change in G force from 53 to 16. At the same time, the Y axis shifts from 27 to 8, indicating a sudden backwards tilt, caused by the weight of the display. A tenth of a second later, the logs indicate a rightward tilt as the X axis changes from 9 to -6. Another tenth of a second - and impact. The G force leaps from 16 to 82 as the PowerBook collides with my hands. If you often lend your computer out, this data could make for some very interesting conversations. "Larry, why did my PowerBook experience a sudden spike in gravitational force at 6:43 PM?" The numbers are fun, but a visual makes for a more interesting demo. Amit has done just this with [url=http://www.kernelthread.com/software/ams/download/AMSVisualizer.dmg]AMSVisualizer[/url], which displays a PowerBook on-screen and tilts it in sync with the computer's actual movements. This is great for demoing the PowerBook to potential customers. [center] Amit has written one more entertaining demo: [url=http://www.kernelthread.com/software/ams/download/StableWindow.dmg]StableWindow[/url]. You can tilt your PowerBook any way you like, but this window refuses to tilt with it. Those interested in reading more about these programs and the technology behind them should visit [url=http://www.kernelthread.com/software/ams/]Amit Singh's website[/url]. Of course, we haven't even addressed one of the most obvious uses for motion sensors: games. It took Peter Berglund just four days after reading Amit's article to have a simple game working based on the motion sensors. Berglund's [url=http://www.balooba.se/baloobasoftware/index.html]BubbleGym[/url] gives the player a marble on a board. Tilting the computer tilts the board and causes the marble to roll. The objective is to roll the ball into the cloud. With each success, a new cloud appears and the allotted time grows shorter. The player has four balls (i.e. lives) and each one exhibits different physical characteristics. Graphics and gameplay are rudimentary, but as a technology demonstration, the game is excellent. BubbleGym is mildly fun to play and a lot of fun to share with others. [center] Where will Apple's motion-sensing technology go from here? A more convenient tool for logging data might also be useful and hopefully an adaptation of the arcade game [url=http://icculus.org/neverball/]Neverball[/url] will soon be in the works. Post your ideas below.

Building a Case for the Replica I

Tue, 22 Feb 2005 07:35:09 -0800

By Larry Nelson [center] As a person with multiple hobbies, I finally found a way to combine at least two of my part-time interests: namely, woodworking and the Replica-1 computer by Vince Briel. After buying the Replica, and adding the serial board, I made a box to put my Apple-1 Replica into. A few months later, Vince came through for the whole group of Replica enthusiasts with authentic ASCII keyboards. My old Replica case wouldn’t take the keyboard I bought from Vince, though, and I decided to build a case that would comfortably hold the new (old) keyboaof my system. Start out with a base of MDF (medium-density-fiberboard) cut to 18 1�?�4 inches by 14-3/8 inches. If 1�?�2 inch plywood is available, that could be used just as well. (The MDF was cheaper at the Home Depot.) Then make two sides from 15 X 5 1�?�2 X 3�?�4-inch pieces of walnut. These boards I cut on a band saw to the shape shown in the drawing. Lacking a band saw, one could cut the boards to shape with a handsaw, a scroll saw or a jigsaw. Carefully sand the rough-sawn edges smooth. Route a bull-nose on the two sides, using a 1�?�4-inch round-over bit. See the pictures for the placement of the round-overs. Don’t route the inside of the sides on the 1inch vertical front edge or the inside of the back edge. If you lack a router and round-over bit, use a wood rasp to round over the edges. [center] Now add a 1/2-inch rabbet to the bottom edge of each side piece. The rabbet is 3/8-inch wide (half the thickness of the side) and 1�?�2-inch deep for the base to fit into. Rabbet the back edge of the sides 3/8-inch by 1�?�4-inch to inset the back into the sides. Remember, the two sides are mirror images of each other. Be careful to correctly orient the two sides before rabbeting the edges, or you’ll wind up with two right or two left pieces. Don’t ask me why I bring this up, but my scrap-box seems to have a spare side in it. [center] The front edge is a piece of walnut wood 19 1�?�4 X 1 1�?�4 X 3�?�4. Shape it as shown in the drawing. Use a rasp to round over the outer edge of the front edge piece. The 15 o bevel on this piece will not properly shape with a round-over bit in a router. Notch the front edge piece on both ends as shown in the drawing. At the top of the back, add a piece of wood 18 1�?�2 X 2 X 3�?�4 to hold the hinges for the top. A 1�?�4-inch by 3/8-inch rabbet on the back side of this piece allows the back to fit flush. [center] The back of the case is a piece of 1�?�4-inch birch plywood, cut to size to fit into the rabbets. Before fastening the back in place, test fit the power supply and Replica circuit board in place. Mark the back to cut out access for the power cord, the PS fan, the monitor connection and the serial plug. Since placement of these holes may vary, I am not providing dimensions. After carefully marking the necessary holes in the back, drill and cut as necessary. There are three more pieces of wood needed to complete the case. Since I have a planer, I planed the wood for these three pieces to 1�?�2 inch thickness. If allowance for the difference in thickness is made, the top and front cross piece could be 3�?�4 inch thick. The key board however should not be thicker than 1�?�2-inch since the keys of the ASCII keyboard do not extend through 3�?�4-inch boards far enough. An alternate key board could be 1�?�2 thick plywood. [center] The top is 17 1�?�2 inches by 7 inches. The key board is 17 1�?�2 by 7 1/2 inches. These two pieces are maple in the original and are made by edge-gluing oversize boards together until you have sufficient width, then cutting the pieces to the correct width and length on the table saw. The vertical cross piece between the top and the keyboard is also 17 1�?�2 inches long. I started with a width for this board of 3 inches, but trimmed it to 2 1�?�4-inches after experimenting with the fit. The angles involved make calculations hard to do. Into this board you will mount the power (on-off) switch, the RESET switch, and an LED for power indication. [center] You will have to drill three holes centered in the board for these switches and light. First mark the location of the three holes, drill 3�?�4 inch holes to within 3/16-inch of the front face, then switch to the finish bit size to complete the holes. This will allow the locknuts to be recessed into the vertical cross piece. Drill a 1/4 inch hole, 1/2 inch deep in the center of each end of the top back piece. Drill matching 1/4 holes, 3/8 inch deep in the sides. We will use two pieces of 1/4 dowel, 7/8 inch long, to hold the top back piece in place. Dry assemble the base, the two sides, the front edge and the top back piece to check for proper fit. Then glue the five pieces, clamping the assembly and checking for square in vertical and horizontal directions. Set the assembly aside. Round the top of the front edge of the top piece using your 1�?�4 inch round-over bit or wood rasp. [center] Cut two triangle pieces of 1�?�2inch scrap wood or plywood into triangles with a 15 o angle. Glue and clamp them onto the inside of the two sides of the assembly. These triangles go to the front of the cabinet and support the key board. The key board is not fastened to the case itself but just rests on the triangles. I found that the best way to cut the key board inlet was to make a cardboard template, test-fitting it over the ASCII keyboard until satisfied with the fit. Center the cardboard template on your case key board, draw the outline, and carefully cut out the pattern with a scroll saw or jigsaw. Smooth the cut edges with a rasp and sandpaper, test-fitting the key board onto the ASCII keyboard until it fits with enough clearance to allow all the keys to move freely. When satisfied with the fit, set the key board aside. Don’t attach the ASCII keyboard until after you have applied your finish. [center] The vertical cross board attaches to the top piece with 4 - #6 X 1-inch screws, glue and the support piece cut as shown in the drawing. If you have cut it to the proper width, the vertical cross board will contact the key board with its bottom edge and hold the key board in place. Now add hinges to the underside of the top piece to attach it to the top back piece. I inset the hinges, using a chisel to cut the inlets, but this is not necessary. With all the pieces finally done, you are ready for sanding and finishing. Sand away all scratches and rough edges with 80 grit sandpaper. Then progress through 120, 180, 240, 320 and 400 grit sandpaper until the surfaces are as smooth as possible. Clean off all dust and fingerprints with mineral spirits. Allow the surface to thoroughly dry, and then rub on two or more coats of Danish Oil or other finishing oil. Allow the oil finish to dry for 24 hours. Assemble the ASCII keyboard by screwing it onto the back of the finished key board. Mount the switches, LED, power supply and circuit board as previously explained. Connect all the wiring. This is not a wiring manual. If you have questions about wiring the Replica, refer to the instruction manual. Contact Vince Briel if necessary. Add four feet to the bottom of the case. I used stick-on felt pads available at the local hardware store. Fasten the back to the case with small screws. Plug it in. Load Microchess. Have Fun. [b]Materials:[/b] [list][*]Back: 18 1�?�4 X 4 1�?�2 -- 1�?�4-inch Birch Plywood [*]Base: 14 3/8 X 18 1�?�4 -- 1�?�2-inch MDF or 1�?�2-inch plywood [*]Front: 18 1�?�4 X 1 -- 3�?�4-inch Walnut [*]Sides: (2) 15 X 5 1�?�2 -- 3�?�4-inch Walnut [*]Key Board: 17 1�?�2 X 7 1�?�2 -- 1�?�2-inch Maple [*]Top: 17 1�?�2 X 7 – 1�?�2-inch Maple [*]Vertical Cross: 17 1�?�2 X 3 – 1�?�2-inch Walnut [*]Back Top: 17 1�?�2 X 2 – 3�?�4-inch Walnut [*]Triangles: (2) 6 1�?�2 X 2 – 1�?�2-inch MDF or 1�?�2-inch plywood [*]Hinges: 1pr. 2-inch X 1 3/16-inch, Brass[/list] [b]Miscellaneous Materials:[/b] [list][*]1�?�2-inch X 4 wood screws (6) [*]1-inch X 6 wood screws (4) [*]Wood Glue [*]Sandpaper in 80, 120, 180, 240, 320 and 400 grits [*]Danish Oil Finish [*]Felt feet for case (Set of 4)[/list]

Apple I Processor Section

Sun, 06 Jun 2004 12:09:41 -0700

[image:2938] I have attempted a redesign of the Apple I processor section. It is available in both PostScript and PDF: [node:2940] [node:2941] I recommend the pdf file, unless you're planning to edit the schematic. The schematic was designed in [url=http://xcircuit.ece.jhu.edu/]XCircuit[/url] using [url=http://fink.sourceforge.net/pdb/package.php/xcircuit]Fink[/url]. The design includes a 6502 processor, 6821 PIA, CY6264 8Kx8 Static RAM, and a 2716 EPROM. This is the first design I've worked on that uses a processor or memory, so it is quite likely I have made some glaring errors. I am very appreciatived of any feedback. Comments can be posted here. [h2]The Design[/h2] [b]EPROM[/b] The ROM monitor is at addresses FF00.FFFF. In place of two PROMs, a 2716 EPROM is used. On the EPROM, address lines A0-A7 are connected to the processor's address lines. A8-A10 are tied to ground. /CE is low when A8-A15 are all high. /OE is connected directly to the processor's R/W. All data lines are directly connected to the processor. [b]RAM[/b] The Apple I has 8k of RAM, provided by 8 8kx1 dynamic RAM package. These are replaced with one 8kx8 static RAM package, the [url=http://www.cypress.com/cfuploads/img/products/CY6264.pdf]CY6264[/url]. This eliminates the need for the RAM refresh circuitry. The RAM is at addresses 0000.0FFF (for sysem and user) and E000.EFFF (for BASIC). A0-A11 are connected to the processor address lines. A12[sub]RAM[/sub] = (A12' • A13 • A14 • A15). CE2 = (A12' • A13' • A14' • A15' + A12' • A13 • A14 • A15). /CE1 is tied to ground (why are there two chip enables?). /WE is connected to the processor's R/W. /OE[sub]RAM[/sub] = R/W[sub]proc[/sub] and /WE = R/W[sub]proc[/sub]'. All data lines are connected directly to the processor. [b]Processor[/b] Ø0 connects to the time base generation circuit provided in the Rockwell data sheet. /NMI, /IRQ, /ML, RDY, and /RES are all tied high. SYNC and Ø1 have no connection. Much thanks goes to Michael Rothe for help with the clock. [b]PIA[/b] The 6820 is replaced with the externally identical 6821. /IRQA, /IRQB, and CA2 have no connection. CS1 is high. CS0 is connected to the processor's A4, RS1 to A1, and RS0 to A0. CS2 = (A15 • A14 • A13' • A12). All data lines are connected to the processor's. R/W is connected to R/W[sub]proc[/sub]. E is connected to Ø2. The keyboard connection (PA0-PA6) is wired for an Apple II+ keyboard. PA7 is wired high. The terminal section is presently configured to use a printer for output, which will allow testing of the processor section independent of the terminal section. The printer wiring is based on this schematic. CB2 sends the "Data Ready" signal to the printer. CB1 and PB7 are low when "Data Accepted" is high.

Apple I Programming

Tue, 21 Dec 2004 12:11:42 -0800

Here are a few simple tips and programs for those interested in programming the Apple I: [h2]To print to screen:[/h2] [code] Echo = $FFEF LDA value_to_print JSR Echo [/code] The above snippet relies on the Echo subroutine in the Apple I's ROM. All you need to do is load an ASCII value into the accumulator, then call that subroutine. [h2]To read a character:[/h2] [code] KbdRdy = $D011 Kbd = $D010 GetChar: LDA KbdRdy ; Key ready? BPL GetChar ; Loop until ready. LDA Kbd ; Load character. RTS ; Exit. [/code] This subroutine loops until a key is pressed, then loads its ASCII value into the accumulator. It is not dependant upon the Apple I's ROM. KbdRdy and Kbd are in the 6821. Subroutine: [node:2936]. [h2]Tools[/h2] [list][*][url=http://www.floodgap.com/retrotech/xa/]xa65[/url] - cross-assembler [*][url=http://www.ameth.org/~veilleux/dcc6502/]dcc6502[/url] - disassembler [*][url=http://www.cc65.org/]cc65[/url] - C compiler[/list]

PowerBook 3400 Pictureframe

Sat, 26 Mar 2005 13:50:37 -0800

[center][thumb:2359][/center] After seeing projects like the [url=http://www.applefritter.com/hacks/duodigitalframe/]Duo Digital Frame[/url] and others online, I thought I'd try my hand at it. Instead of hunting down a Duo or Powerbook 100 for a 4x6'' frame, I decided to go for an 8x10'' size (or 800x600 resolution) to display my travel photos. I have, or had, a PowerBook 3400c that had been surplussed from work due to a dead CD ROM drive, the replacement cost of which is about the same as buying another used 3400. The trackpad button also had some issues, but otherwise, the 3400 was in pretty good repair - no spots on the screen, for one thing. And so it began, as most of these project do, with disassembly. As with every Mac model, Apple provides assembly and repair instructions for the 3400 [url=ftp://ftp.info.apple.com/Apple_Support_Area/Misc/Service/servicemanuals/powerbook_3400c.g3.pdf]here[/url]. Don't lose that Torx #6. Once the 'book was apart - completely apart - I set aside all the parts I didn't need, everything but the motherboard, power supply, RAM, hard drive and LCD. If anybody needs a 3400 keyboard, trackpad, bezel, case, speakers... call me :) [center][thumb:2360][/center] [i]update: In a recent overhaul of the 3400 frame, I put the speakers back in, so I can now, potentially, have the tiny little speakers sound off alarms or something. I don't have any real use for putting them in, but I thought I'd find something eventually.[/i] With all that taken out, I needed to be sure the PowerBook still worked for what I wanted to do with it. So i hooked everything that was left back together (on the coffee table in my living room) and fired it up. With thoughts to making the frame wireless, I popped in a WaveLAN Silver PC card and configured it so I could control the 3400 from my iBook via AirPort with Timbuktu, load new photos onto it, etc. It's a lot easier this way than trying to hook up a keyboard and mouse to the ADB port which, at this point in the build, I couldn't be sure was going to be accessible. [i]update: if you look at the [url=http://www.applefritter.com/node/2356]detail[/url] you can see where the ADB port is, next to the AC power in the upper right. it's accessible when the lid is opened, and comes in handy for soft reboots and making occasional tweaks.[/i] [center][thumb:2357][/center] At this point, I also wrote an AppleScript to manage the tasks of 1) randomizing the photos to be displayed, 2) copying the photos to a RAM disk, as I could never get the contents of the RAM disk to be saved between boots, and 3) kicking off the slideshow. At first, I had intended to use JPEGView set to display the photos at random, fade between, etc. But I noticed one problem with JPEGView: the cursor! So I poked around amongst my old utilities and dug up KPT QuickShow, which does slideshows with configurable fades and delays, but doesn't do random, hence that step in the AppleScript. The JPEGs and slideshow software are on a RAM disk, so the hard drive can spin down and the frame can run almost silent. [center][thumb:2356][/center] [i]update: Instead of a RAM disk, I've updated the script to copy images to a 16 meg PCMCIA flash memory card that acts as a little hard drive, just big enough to hold about 25 photos. The advantage of this, in addition to being flash and thus maintaining its contents between reboots, and the continued silent operation of the pictureframe, is that the limited RAM of the powerbook can be used for the system and slideshow program. cutting into the RAM for the RAM disk posed too many problems (a memory leak somewhere, the setting reverting every time power was cut out). It also comes in handy to shuttle files to and from the machine, now that the waveLAN card is being put to use elsewhere, in one of my Newton MessagePad 2100s.[/i] [i]update again: I've posted my applescript in [url=http://www.applefritter.com/blog/3795]my blog[/url]. share and enjoy.[/i] Then came the woodwork. Quarter-inch poplar (probably my favorite material to work with) was cut, sanded, stained, burnished, and attached with hot glue and some scrap quarter-round for strructure. (Remember, measure twice; cut once.) I lay the screen into the frame and attached it with double-sided tape, then built the rest on top of that with a combination of double-sided tape and white masking tape. [center][thumb:2363][/center] I left the top panel of the frame free so the necessary ports on the motherboard could still be accessed. You can see the AC power plug, the ADB port, and PCMCIA slots. The wireless card is removed during normal operation so I can use it elsewhere, but its a simple matter to pop it in and update the scripts or upload photos. On the far right in this shot, you can see where the hard drive is mounted. [center][thumb:2361] [thumb:2362] [thumb:2358][/center] I took some pains to get the little details on the outside of the frame to look right, despite the mess that's on the inside. For one, I needed a way to power up the 3400 without a keyboard and without taking half the frame off. So I drilled a small hole in the frame opposite the reset button on the motherboard and inserted a... um.. well, it's a chopstick from some carryout Chinese food. I didn't have any dowel on hand, and the chopstick tapers perfectly to hit the button on the motherboard. I also cut a notch in the frame to thread the power cable through, so the frame can sit flush to the wall it's hanging on. The final result is a nice addition to my living room, and leaves a lot of room for improvement. For one, I'd like to keep the wireless card in place, and put together an applescript to grab images off my network, rather than having to pre-load them onto the hard drive myself. There's also the possibility of using it to display things like the weather map or scrolling headlines, but showing off my vacation photos is enough for now. Maybe I'll use the PowerBook 190 I've got in the closet for the other stuff, once I find a power supply for it.