Just found that IIGS in a dumpster...

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Just found that IIGS in a dumpster...

Ok first time i got lucky! 

This found near dumbster in great condition. No Monitor, Keyboard or mouse. :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Interesting looking cards in

Interesting looking cards in there.

 

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wow

That IIgs is pretty well kitted out, with a ZIP GSX accelerator, Sequential Systems RAMFast/SCSI controller and RAM-GS Plus, AE Sonic Blaster, HyperStudio, and Vitesse Quickie scanner adapter. And it was in a dumpster?

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Yes... in a dumpster! Mind

Yes... in a dumpster! Mind blowing but just now saw the worth of accelerator card. Is that true???

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Yeah if you're serious you

Yeah if you're serious you hit the expansion cards lottery. 

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Zijjel wrote:Yes... in a
Zijjel wrote:

Yes... in a dumpster! Mind blowing but just now saw the worth of accelerator card. Is that true???

All of those cards in there are highly sought after.  More than the computer itself probably.

 

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Thank you all! Btw as I am

Thank you all! Btw as I am not an Apple IIGS guy I may sell this one. If there is an interest in something you can drop me a pm with offer. Thank you 

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Hello again! Before i switch

Hello again!

 

Before i switch on this IIGS i decided to open the power supply to check if all is ok and to check also if there is any KILLER RIFA capacitor inside.

I saw that have 4 capacitor looks like RIFA but they are WIMA (MP3) Brand.

 

Are those capacitors need a replace like we do on RIFA ones? WIMA have also exploding habbits? :)

 

Thank you!

 

CVT
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Yes, if they are with the

Yes, if they are with the transparent exposed epoxy, it will crack, fill with moisture, become a conductor and they might explode:

 

 

You would want to put the new type, where they use non-transparent epoxy inside plastic:

 

 

Btw, amazing dumpster find!

 

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Thank you! Yes, i will change

Thank you!

 

Yes, i will change them to be sure. Also i order an ER14250 battery holder with cables and new battery 3.6v ER14250 and i will put it away from the motherboard. Thank God there is 0% battery damage from the original varta! Btw the original battery is 3v, it is ok to put 3.6v yes?

 

 

 

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I don't know if 3.6V would be

I don't know if 3.6V would be a problem, but I wouldn't risk it. Why not just get a caddy for two 1.5V AAA batteries?

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Yes, or that. Well i will

Yes, or that. Well i will search / read /ask, before replace it.

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Well, WIMA caps are in great

Well, WIMA caps are in great shape for all those years. Not even a tiny crack in body, but better change them with a new type and give 30+ years of life to this old supply!  ;)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Zijjel wrote:Thank you! Yes,
Zijjel wrote:

Thank you!

 

Yes, i will change them to be sure. Also i order an ER14250 battery holder with cables and new battery 3.6v ER14250 and i will put it away from the motherboard. Thank God there is 0% battery damage from the original varta! Btw the original battery is 3v, it is ok to put 3.6v yes?

 

First, your supply looks different than the Astech 13-851 found on the US GSes, any chance this is a 240V supply or other supplyer like Dynacomp?

One important difference with the US GS 13-851 supply and the dreaded rifa caps is wired different than the II+/IIe supply. The GS uses a Y-class cap, this presents a potentially deadly situation if an X-class is used in a 13-851 supply!

 

One of your pictures seems to show X2 but I couldn't see all. X2 is X-class. Make sure you know the difference! Using an X class in a Y configuration can be deadly! Using a Y in an X configuration shouldn't be bad... but avoid any potential risk by using the correct one. Everyone that touches the supply after you will be grateful!

Another thing I noticed is Astec (if this is an Astech design) would often have two MOVs on the input in addtion to the RIFA. But DynaComp's designs use saftey caps in place of MOVs. Similar but different designs. This may be a Dynacomp supply. 

 

One final point on the battery, they came from the factory originally with 3V Varta,but later builds came with the 3.6V Tadiran. If you look at the schematic I think the 3.6V makes more sense. The battery is just holding up the clock and its parameter RAM. The clock minimium voltage is not far (<0.5V) from what gets on clock power pin with a 3V cell. Should work with either votlage, but longer with 3.6V lithium.

 

 

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Thank you very much jeff d

Thank you very much jeff d for that replay!

Here you are with fresh photos! Indeed the power supply is DYNA COMP brand. Is that good brand? Any difference in quality? About the caps please see the new photos. The big one looks like X2 but the small one a Y type. Tell me more please. how should i move now! :) Thank you!

 

 

 

 

 

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Personally I'm not a fan of

Personally I'm not a fan of the Dynacomp prodcuts but that's not because they don't work  well (I have no experience with them) but rather because of personal preferences with the design. This is also the result of their IIe series supply which was added around 86. The last non-platinum and I believe all platinums come with Dynacomp supplies.

 

There are really 3 things I dislike and this is all personal preference...

1) I dislike the PCB construction. I don't remember exactly what the material is but I don't like it, feels cheap and brittle. 

2) The boards I've seen appear to have parts overheating (PCB discoloring).

3) These are the big ones... saved the best for last. The design looks similar to the Astech design but I have not seen a schematic of their boards. In addition to that, the board doesn't have cmponent label silkscreen... this is more of a convience thing but very helpful when discussing things on the board. ie C20 instead of the middle capacitor closest to the output.... good chance someone could get that wrong without a label.

 

As to the cap type... I'm not sure what your pictures are. Are those one side of two caps or two  sides of the same cap? Aren't there two of the smaller caps?  May be moot questions becuase two may be identical, but not a good time to make assumptions. Some of the symbols in the first image indicate it meets safety standards and the class is listed.I'm not sure the second picture (if different) the specs should be listed and labeled Y2 or X2 somewhere on the case . Both should have similar certification markings. IF you had the schematic you could look and figure it out, but... Dynacomp schematics are not available, at least I've not seen them. Unfortunately I also haven't seen a GS Astech 13-851 schematic either... Working blindly with AC power circuits is something only an experienced engineer should do.

 

I could say more, but we're moving into very dangerous waters. if you do not understand what you're doing with selecting replacement parts do not move forward. Your objective is honorable, but I'm sorry I don't think this is the right path at this point.

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No need to look at the

No need to look at the schematics in this case. All you need to do is put new X2 and Y1 caps (this is what the originals are) with the same capacitance and that's it. They are available everywhere.

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Thank you both very much!

Thank you both very much!

 

Sorry that i don't explain about the pic's. Here are new pic's both sides:

 

For the big one:

 

 

For the small one:

 

 

Also i have found online that pdf:

 

PDF iconApple-IIgs-Power-Supply-Recap-Guide-DCI-v1-Mac84-v2-pdf.pdf

 

Now about the battery, i found localy a 3v one. The Varta CR1/2AA (CR14250). So i will go with that.

 

 

 

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Zijjel wrote:Also i have
Zijjel wrote:

Also i have found online that pdf:

PDF iconApple-IIgs-Power-Supply-Recap-Guide-DCI-v1-Mac84-v2-pdf.pdf

...

 

If it works as is and you are still planning to sell it, don't recap anything else. I would even put back the RF filter caps, considering their great condition. If you do a full recap, on average you will end up with less perceived value than what you started with. If the new owner wants to recap it, he can do it himself in accordance with his recapping beliefs.

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Well to be honest i want to

I didn't power it up yet. I didn't want a capacitor to pop and stain the board with black marks. I don't even know if it is working condition. 

 

I want to replace only this 4 caps. The only reason is that type of caps have the habit over the years to broke and explode. No other reason! I know that my caps, the original ones,  are in great condition. You bealive should i leave it like this? put them back?

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They won't pop now if they

They won't pop now if they are not shorted and you don't see any cracks. The reason to replace them is more of a long term prevention.

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Well, i better change them. :

Well, i better change them. :)

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Well, lucky me its working!

Well, lucky me its working! sadly i dont have a disk drive to give a proper boot. Not even a keyboard. As i told before i don't want to keep this. Can you please give a price for this computer with all that cards inside? You gonna help a lot! Thank you! :)

 

Video: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/dy0xf7exqozp8qhqdjly1/IMG_1615.MOV?rlkey=ew12fgy7hd5hwk4a3cpc2aa30&dl=0

 

 

 

 

 

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Based on recently sold ones

Based on recently sold ones on eBay: between $200 and $250 for the States and between $350 and $400 for Europe.

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CVT wrote:Based on recently
CVT wrote:

Based on recently sold ones on eBay: between $200 and $250 for the States and between $350 and $400 for Europe.

Maybe for an empty GS. But that thing is loaded with a zip gsx and ram fast scsi card (among others). The zip gsx alone is probably $500-$600 US. 

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nick3092 wrote:CVT wrote
nick3092 wrote:
CVT wrote:

Based on recently sold ones on eBay: between $200 and $250 for the States and between $350 and $400 for Europe.

Maybe for an empty GS. But that thing is loaded with a zip gsx and ram fast scsi card (a

 

Sure, but only if they are identified separately and tested or perhaps sold separately. If they are just a bunch of cards inside a computer without a keyboard, they don't really contribute that much to the value.

 

It might be worth it to buy a keyboard and fully test everything.

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Thank you very much. I will

Thank you very much. I will try to find a keyboard and what it needed to give a good test on everything!

 

Special thanks to you nick3092 for your honesty! :)

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Zijjel wrote:Thank you very
Zijjel wrote:

Thank you very much. I will try to find a keyboard and what it needed to give a good test on everything!

 

Special thanks to you nick3092 for your honesty! :)

 

I think both were honest and not really fair to suggest CVT was being dishonest. 

Not to get too deep in the weeds on this, but you've discovered the problem with price speculations. This is also why this topic is generally viewed negatively. Price estimates are always biased and based on personal interests either directly or indirectly. You can't get around that. 

 

If CVT is offering to pay (and they may) it's an honest estimate, otherwise best ignore it. 

If nick is offering to pay (and they may) it's an honest estimate, otherwise best to ignore.

The problem with pricing estimates is amyone can say anything at anytime. Unless it's an offer backed by funds it's only a number.

 

 

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Re:Just found that IIGS in a dumpster...

That is Beautiful!!!!

 

 

What a Lucky Find!!!!

 

 

 

MarkO

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