Help with parts on an apple lisa 2/5 power supply

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Joined: May 14 2006
Posts: 24

I have tested the parts I could. some other ones have not been tested but I suspect they do not work. the fallowing numbers are in reference to http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schemview.php?id=1419 (1.2amp)
I would like if someone could direct me to a good place to get these in the usa and what the equivalent catalog number would be. Im not that good with some of these parts, I am usually just used to electrolytic caps and plain resistors, some of these parts Im not familiar with and don't want to get the wrong type of cap or etc. I know this is kinda a dumb question but I don't put it past myself to mess something simple up.

c1
c2
c3
c4
r8
cr2
r15
r14
c7
c30
c35
c34
c32
c25
c26

Thank you for all your help
Patrick

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pmjett's picture
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Joined: Sep 5 2005
Posts: 181
whew.

What laundry list. I don't see anything weird in here, although I haven't found c26 on the schematic yet. Maybe that's the admantium widget. You've got scads of places in the US that you might order these parts. I happen to like Mouser Electronics, but Digi-key is just as good. It pays to compare between the two, as prices vary.

here's the parts in a nutshell. I'm not an EE, so these are my best guesses from tinkering with stuff.

c1-c4 metalized film polyester caps will work great. I'd pick ones with as high a temp range as you can get, and obviously 250 WV or higher. Whatever you can physically fit on the circuit board
An example mouser part number: 5989-400V.22-F (0.22 uF 400V)

R8 without looking at the board you have, you could use anything that will physically fit that has 2W or higher power rating. Vitreous enamel and silicon wirewound, metal oxide, etc.
example mouser part: 283-0.5-RC (0.5 ohm, 3W metal oxide)

CR2: 400V 15A triac, the "exact" replacement is available through
Digi-Key. Mouser has similar triacs. I found a 511-BTB16-600B (600V, 16A) that should work- the other specs look close.
Digi-key part number: MAC15A6OS-ND

R14,15 I see no reason why 1/2W carbon film resistors won't work here
Mouser example: 660-CF1/2L913J

C7 good ol' electrolytic capacitor. Pick a higher WV if you have room, and the best temp range you can get. Look at the datasheets (accessible directly from search results at either vendor) to determine if the part is going to fit.
Mouser example: 140-HTRL35V1000-RC or 140-XRL35V1000-RC

C25,C30,C32,C34,C35 again, without looking at the supply, I'd say go for metalized film polyester caps
Mouser example part: 5989-250V.1-F (0.1uF 250V)

I can't find C26. I've looked several times. Generally, replace it in kind as far as type. So, if it's a ceramic disc (as in flat brown disc-thingy) then use that. If looks like a flat vitamin, go for the polyester film. Obviously if it's electrolytic (and shown polarized on the schematic) use that. If you know where it is on the schematic, then read off the specs and go for it.

I think that Mouser's search is a little more intuitive, just start clicking the general part description; remembering that resistors, caps, etc are general called "passive components" on their site. Then it narrows to a parametric selection. Digi-key (for me) seems to work better if you just type some basic description words into the search box, and then click your way to a parametric selection. So I typed "0.1 metal capacitor" into their search box and got a selection for polyester film or polypropylene film, clicked on polyester and then I had a parametric selection from there. YMMV.

Hope this is a start. I'd like to hear next week that you have a working Lisa switching power supply!

mike

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Offline
Joined: May 14 2006
Posts: 24
Thank you so much this is so

Thank you so much this is so much help I just wanted to double check with someone. I have had a hard time finding them so I figured I might be looking in the wrong spot.

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Joined: May 14 2006
Posts: 24
hmm i must have missed somthing testing earlier

After some more testing I found that the power might be good I did replace 6 caps. Now I have to figure out what is wrong. when I turn on my lisa the light now comes on everytime, never happened before. but no beep or picture. I have tried two different cpu boards and two different mem boards. No picture on the external connected monitor. Earlier tonight I did see a white flash or two on the monitor so I think that the tube on the monitor is still good. Could the video card ( the one behind the picture tube) need fixed? any sugestions? On a side note someone I have been in contact with might have a lisa still in a box hardly used if at all. don't know what model or anything but might be getting it Smile if they are not trying to pull my leg Smile

Patrick