1- I bought a color classic (10 MB Ram), It's original 80MB hard disk was deffective, so I replaced it with a 540 MB Western Digital, and everything was Ok, until one day my CC stop booting. I have tried with another keyboard, and nothing. When I turn on the power switch, doesn't make the crt charging sound. The first time it happened, I tried several times to boot it up, and suddenly it worked. Once it boots, everything works fine until I shut down, then ... nothing. I tried by disconnecting the new hard-drive.. and nothing. Looking for help in this forum, I did read about some guy that was having the same problem, and he removed the logic board, then turn the swith on, then pressed the power button on the keyboard, and then inserted the logic board again... and the CC booted just fine. Well... I did that, and it works. Obviously, that's not a permanent solution, so please if anybody can help me, It will be really appreciated.
2- I can't transfer large files (over 1.44MB) from PC to Mac. Nothing seems to work. I've tried Zipping and segmenting files in PC, and then running unzip under Mac Os, and nothing. I've tried stuffit for Windows (also segmenting the archive), and nothing. I've tried splitting files using splitit for mac under VMAC emulator in my PC and then trying to join the parts with Splitit in my Mac, and doesn't work either. The resulting file is not recognized by Stuffit expander, it just doesn't do anything at all, no unstuffing, no error message.. nothing.
Thanks in advance to everybody, and excuse my extremely poor english (I'm from Chile, I speak spanish).
PLEASE HELP, & REGARDS
Hola senor, se hablo espanol picano. (And I can't find what keys make the accents offhand... oh well)
Anyway, if you can find an LC-PDS ethernet card you can put that into your CC and use FTP, AppleTalk, etc to transfer files. You'd have to setup appropriate software on the CC and the host PC, but it can be done much easier than trying to wrangle 7 floppies and hope they don't get read errors.
I didn't think about that. I've found the following card:
Macally LC PDS Ethernet Card
Is that Ok? Doesn't say anything about Mac Classic...
Thank you very much. (By the way... I don't know what "español picano" means...)
Your English is great! It's certainly better than Jon's Spanish And most Americans' English.
This page indicates that the Macally works with a Color Classic.
A color classic is a different beast than a plain classic. VERY different. Your CC should have a PDS slot on the pullout board. The LC-PDS card should plug right in, though you may have to remove the port cover to get it in if it has one in place. It might require a drive to get working, but there is a chance that the Mac OS might have had basic drivers installed.
I was trying to remember 8+ years ago of Spanish class. I thought I was typing something along the lines of "Hello Sir, I speak a little Spanish." I guess my Spanish is much much worse than your English. Your's is really quite good.
Yes Jon, I know about PDS Slot... It's waiting for the arrival of the network card I've found (thanks dead elvis)... Another stupid question (I guess, at least for you experts): To avoid using a hub, can I connect directly My CC network card to PC network card using a cross-link network cable?. NEVER MIND... the page dead_elvis linked told me everything about it...
On the other hand.. I have to insist... can anyone help me with my first problem detailed in the opening message of this topic? (My CC has been ON for the last 10 days... I'm afraid to turn it off...)
Ok, thank you all very much for encouraging my english, I'm starting to believe I can really communicate decently with english-spoken people.
Jon, keep working on that "español picano"... (thanks for the network tip, great solution).
Hey there Miguel!
When I installed a larger hard drive into my CC I've had the same problems you had, messing around with floppy disks trying to transfer data, then finding out a floppy was bad etc. Installing an Ethernet Card made a world of a difference! Snappy data transfer (a heck of a lot faster than floppys - or 'sneaker-net' as some people used to call it), no data loss, it made everything so much easier!!
For the issue with the CC not coming back on when having been cut off, it might be an issue with the lithium battery on the logic board (correct me if I'm wrong fellow forum members). There are all kinds of funky issues that could arise when the battery is dead (or near-death). Or it could just be an upset failure, which is something older hardware experiences every now and then - simply due to it's age. But if you say it's been running for the past ten days without locking up or any other issues, then there shouldn't be much wrong with the hardware per sé... My guess would be the battery, but I might be wrong... sorry that I can't help more. But hey, I tried!
I hope you'll have a lot of fun with your CC, at least as much as I do. Take care
Yes... what a computer... Thanks for your help. I was surfing a lot before bothering you people, when I bought the CC was booting just fine, no problem at all, but every time I turned it on, Mac OS ask me to set up time and date... then I read something about what you say, that dead or almost dead battery could be the problem... so I replaced it, now the system keeps date and time all right, but the booting problem persists. I sent a message to a guy was having exactly the same problem in this forum, but I haven't got an answer from him... maybe He's not reading the forum anymore.
The most annoying thing about this, is that every time I boot the computer (pulling the logic board) the CC doesn't recognize the internal hard drive (sad mac), so I have to boot from a floppy, run Lido (since it's not an apple drive, you must know about it) to mount the hard drive again, and reboot... (Hard to enjoy the computer this way...). One last input for you experts: When I reboot, not always works, many times the CC just stays on, but with a blank screen, no sound, no reboot at all, If I press a couple of times the combination-key for reboot (you know...control, apple and power button) the CC boots fine...
Thanks BeniD82, I already bought a network card and I'm waiting for it... that will be great.
Well... I'm very grateful and I'll keep an aye on this forum expecting for even more kind help from you.
Regards, good luck to everybody.
Try booting with the power cable to the HD dis-connected, just in case you're trying to draw too much power from the analogue board.
Hi. I've just tried that. Nothing. Doesn't boot with HD power cable disconnected.
One more input: With the power swith on and after pressing the power key, absolute nothing happens, no sound, no fan, nothing. As I already said, if I remove and then re-attach the logic board, the Mac boots. What I just noticed is that the system powers up when I remove the logic board (the fan starts to spin), not in the moment I push it back. So... maybe something in the logic board is kind of "shorting"?? Any chances the HD jumper configuration has something to do with it?
I'm gonna try to boot removing the scsi cable... the problem starts when I replaced the hard drive so...
Thanks, take care
The thing that happens when you pull out the logic board, meaning the fan spinning up and the CRT charging, it happens when I do the same to my CC, so I guess that's a "normal" behaviour when one pulls the logic board out when the power is on.
About the hard drive not mounting, have you tried the "patched" Apple Disk Setup Utility? With the patched version you should be able to initialize and use any non-Apple SCSI disk. It might be working better than the Lido-Drivers, just a wild guess though.
It actually sounds like that the logic board might be fried (just a wild guess though) - the way it sounds like at least. It doesn't have any jumpers that one could set... *When* it actually powers up, does it boot into the Operating System, hence you have a picture, sound and all that? Yet again, I'm not all that certain either...
The hard drive is properly initialized and mounted, with System 7.5.3 running perfectly. The thing is: When I shut down, and then I'm forced to pull out the logic board to turn it on again, the Mac seems to "forget" the hard drive (not a battery problem, I've just replaced, besides, the time and date now are Ok), so I get a sad Mac, like if the disk wasn't there. If I boot from floppy, I just have to mount the hard disk to make it work normally (no need to initialize or install anything), then reboot, and that's it, boots into System 7.5.3 (from the HD), full sound, image, everything, and works with no problem until I Shutdown. Pretty strange uh?...
When I mentioned jumpers, I was meaning the Hard Drive jumpers. I don't know what else to do... Maybe replacing the logic board, and that would be the perfect oportunity to make an update.
Again, thank you very much for your help and guidance.
First, three quotations from Apple's (retired) Technical Note TN1079:
Passive Power Control exists in systems where the power supply is turned off or on by a switch directly in line with the primary AC voltage to the supply.
There are also certain Macintosh models, such as the Color Classic, LC475 and LC575 CPUs, that implement a Pseudo-Soft Power supply control. In those cases, the keyboard power key can be used to initiate a power-up of the system, but the chassis switch is wired directly to the power supply and is not utilized by Cuda.
Most Macintosh computers [at the time of writing of this TN] are equipped with an internal microcontroller that, among other things, manages the Macintosh power providing Soft Power Control. This microcontroller, a custom ASIC designed specifically for Apple, dictates the circumstances under which the Macintosh will initiate a power up cycle.
Relevant here are three of the five circumstances cited in the document:
1) Manual depression of the Power-key on the keyboard.
2) Manual depression of a momentary-contact switch, usually mounted on the rear chassis of the system.
5) When AC power is restored to a system configured in Server Mode.
Soft Power Control exists only (ignoring PowerBooks) in systems where AC voltage is always available to the power supply. That is, there is no AC on/off switch provided, and the power supply is controlled by the state of the power fail warning (PFW) signal. In Macs that are able to use true Soft Power, there is an internal piece of Macintosh system software (the Cuda Manager, also known as Egret), and the Cuda is the firmware that communicates with the microcontroller responsible for managing the Macintosh power.
You mentioned the notorious Three-Fingered Salute, for warm restart using the keyboard Power key. It is not clear to me whether you have also tried using the keyboard Power key alone for startup. Disconnecting/reconnecting the logic board is Not A Good Thing, and justifiable only to assure yourself that the system can work. Pulling the logic board can absolutely be guaranteed to dislocate the Mac's remembrance (in PRAM) of whether and where it has a HDD, as you have found. After that, it is better by far to solve the failure of the keyboard Power key to work for startup. In general, the rear AC switch should be left on permanently.
Hi Granysmith, thanks for your help. Of course I've tried all the time to boot using just the power key. The keyboard is Ok, I have another one and I've tried with both, that's not the problem. When I mentioned the three key combination, I was talking about rebooting. When the CC is working and I restart from Mac OS, many times the screen stays blank, no sound, no restart, then I press the three keys, to force a reboot, not for turning on the Mac.
I'm sure you're right, pulling out the logic board can't be good. That's why I'm asking for help, something is wrong with the power supply, a fuse or something...
Hi. Today I Removed the logic board to take a close look at it... I found a couple of very dirty areas, not just with dust, but with some black and greasy substance... On of them under the PDS slot, the other near to the SCSI connector... I'm trying to clean it as best as I can... Any ideas? Will be possible my logic board is dead? or dieing?
Logic boards are washable. Dishwashers are often mentioned, but they are not essential. You can use a trigger-operated spray bottle, hot (55°) water and a few drops of kitchen detergent. Pay particular attention to areas that prior close inspection (with a glass) has shown to have deposits. Rinse well, twice, using the same pressure-spray bottle, after rinsing the bottle well. Shake off the surplus water. If you can give a final spray with distilled water, so much the better. Allow the board to dry in an airy corner for a week. In older Macs you would look at the formerly messy areas to see whether there are leaking electrolytic capacitors that need replacing, but the CC board has none of the large axial kind. In your case the goo may come from spillages of almost any nature that you will never know the cause of. The locations are not particularly indicative.