I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

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I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

I've decided I would like to build an Apple 1 replica, using either Mimeo or Newton-1 board.

So far I've got some of the TI 16 pdip sockets, but need to find everything else(!).

I figure if I use period sockets, then at least I can swap out the chips for date correct ones when I can find them.

Curious though, that since it is only a replica afterall, whether one could make a rub-on set of chip markings. The idea being that the modern marks are removed and new markings put on. Feasible??

I've got a few spare TI 16 pdip sockets that I'm looking to trade for some of the others like the 40pin, 14 pin etc.

If anyone has anything they would like to trade I would greatly appreciate it!

Dean

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

I'm expecting to have a fresh batch of Mimeos available this week. Corey has been re-logoing chips, you should ask him what he is doing. I know that some folks have literally taken years to find all the right date code correct parts, and they are still searching for a few.

Regards,
Mike W.

www.willegal.net

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

I have been rebadging a few chips(not that many as most of my chips are correct) . For a few unobtainium chips, I usually start with pretty date close but correct packages or the exact date but the printing may be wrong because of the factory or I might only find military grade (Fairchild printing varied from factory).

Re-printing chips is not easy. Removing the old logo takes practice and chemicals and other tricks to not damage the chip and to not have ghosting of the old printing. Then I built a special press since you shouldn't use ink that dissolves in alcohol and should use paint (thinning takes practice) plus the cost of a stamp and the hours making correct artwork. Trust me you only do it when something is impossible to find and after you have looked for years.

Put it this way. I would have rather paid $50 for a single correct Fairchild 555 timer than what it took to make one. But I had no choice as the only ones I had ever seen on a board were soldered into items just as rare or more rare than an Apple-1.

Here is another example, I had to buy $50 worth if 1975 fairchild military spec chips to relogo to get a single 74154 in the correct package and date. Not counting the hours on the artwork and the cost of the stamp and the time to stamp it.

BTW: half the fun of the mimeo is tracking down correct parts. Relabeling/relogo is just a last resort. I think I searched for a year to get a 7408PC with the correct date code, but I did find one. LOL

Cheers,
Corey

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Thanks Corey,

I'll no doubt be picking your brains as to where i may be able to locate some of this stuff - im in Australia which can make things a little trickier too.

Looking forward to it though!

Thanks,
Dean

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Sure no problem. A lot of chips I had to buy large quantities of, so I may have spares to sell or trade. PM me after you get a Mimeo board built and we can go over what I spares of.

Cheers,
Corey

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Hi Dean,

I am also in Australia (SA).

Sounds like you are at about the same point in time as me in construction.

Chasing down parts is slow and we just don't have access to the gear that is available in USA, thus making the task even harder.
I managed to score 3 x MC6821's purple ceramic packaging dated 7710. They are soldered in. but I'll be removing them soon.
Probably not the perfect date range, but very close.

Ti Sockets seem to be none existent. I have been searching for months are barely a hint of availability.

Unicorn electronics Apple I kit, they supply machined sockets, no in keeping with the authenticity of the project.

The Gold based LM320K is also VERY elusive.

I'm willing to share sources if that helps.

Cheers, Martin...

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Hi Martin,

Through contacts on this forum and in the retro restore yahoo group I have managed to source a few parts but am still looking for many. Drop me an email (deanclaxton at gmail.com) and we can discuss further

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Apple 1 Replica Power/Video Connectors

Hi All,

Ive managed to source many parts for my Apple I project, but one things eludes me.

Thanks to Richard I have what looks like the original 4 pin and 6 pin PCB mount video and power connectors.

I am trying to source the same vintage female (socket) that mates with this.

Ive spend hours on mouser and other sites but have not found anything that comes close.

Sad thing is I have been in the service industry for 30+ years and Ive seen dozens of these connectors, but cant remember in what equipment and cannot identify a brand or part number.

Does anyone know what htey are called, and/or where to soruce them?

What have others done to connect from the Apple I PCB to the monitor and transformers?

Cheers, Martin...

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Re: Apple 1 Replica Power/Video Connectors

Martin,

I think this one looks close to the one used in the original, what you need is to get the wire into the metal terminals (with a tool) and plug it into the housing, I think the same seller should have 6 pin for the power supply as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-96mm-156-pitch-wire-to-pcb-connector-4pos-x10sets-/290904851367?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bb47c3a7

Cheers, Michael

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Molex 09-50-1041 & Molex 09-50-1061. The terminal is 08-50-0106

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Re: Apple 1 Replica Power/Video Connectors

Thanks Mike that's awesome!

Amazing forum, I search for weeks and got nothing and got 2 replies within a few hours with the exact information I was after.

Cheers, Martin...

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Thanks Mike that's awesome!

Amazing forum, I search for weeks and got nothing and got 2 replies within a few hours with the exact information I was after.

I'm guessing Mouser would stock these, let me take a look.

Cheers, Martin...

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Has anyone managed to identify the manufacturer of the yellow colored 22uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitors.

I think the Blue ones are: PHILIPS 22UF 25V 4.5X10MM AXIAL (Philips being sold to Vishay these days), although that doesn't matter as we are all looking for NOS.

Thanks and Cheers, Martin...

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Siemens sold yellow capacitors with red marking. I've got two of these (22uf,25v), they are really close to the originals exept there is the Siemens logo on them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180820433783?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D180820433783%26_rdc%3D1

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

Has anyone identified the brand/make type of the green 0.1uF decoupling capacitors on the NTI boards?

I've just waded through eBay looking at nearly 1600 0.1uF capacitors and there are some that are close but not the correct colour.

I believe they are one of the following

Mylar
Plastic Film
Ceramic Monolithic/Multilayer
Polyester

Almost certainly 50V/63V or perhaps 100V rating?

This is the closest I have found:

From ebay

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

This one should only have a lead spacing of around 3~4mm and you will need to find something with 6~7mm lead spacing in order to fit into the holes and make the caps stand up vertically otherwise you either have to bend the lead or have the cap tilted. I am also searching for the same caps and it seems they were also used in original Apple II. No brand name shown but just a "104z" marking. Another possible approach is to find one with enough lead spacing and custom-mold the cap body with epoxy. But I have tried though.

Michael

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

The caps used in an Apple II Rev 0 are similar in color and style, and were probably made by the same manufacturer, but the ones on an Apple 1 are significantly larger. I suspect that the caps are either > 0.1uF or a higher voltage.

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

These look pretty good.

The lead spacing is the only possible issue, it reads a bit odd, might have to ask them for clarification.

MY104J100 SAMWHA 0.1UF 100V FILM POLYESTER RADIAL CAPACITOR

Plenty of similar values but need the correct colour for authenticity.

I guess that's half the fun of the project in the first place.

Martin...

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Re: I'm going to build an Apple 1 replica :-)

I don't think that's a good match. For a start the width is 0.46" which I would think is much larger than the NTI caps. The NTI caps were probably a monolithic type, which tend to be much smaller than a polyester cap of the same value.

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