Someone over at the MacNN Forums posted this quote unquote "Crappy Photoshop" of a black iBook..
To me, it looks more like dark grey and goldish brown and I'm in love.
What I would like to know is how it could be possible? What colors of paint could be used?
From the looks of it, the bottom is a goldish brown. Very nice.
The frame in the middle is a dark grey color as is the top part. Not quite black. Not quite grey. Just slightly lighter than black.
The iBook I have is a 600MHz 2002 model G3. It is the clear cased kind. So it would be easy to paint once the case were off.
What kinds of paint are recommended. Are there colors made like this in spray form.
I guess the only part not recommended to paint is the Trackpad and I could keep the keyboard. (BTW, what keyboards are compatible with an iBook? Or at least key caps. The perfect keyboard is a Bronze one. I could keep the keys white if I needed to.)
I would want paint that won't fade too fast on the mouse button and palmrest. Also, something that won't melt from the heat. Also, would I still be able to see the Sleep Light pulsing.
What size tools will I need to simply remove the case from everything including the CD tray and battery bottom. I might keep the port part white.
I'm just curious about the practicality of trying this modification. If it's too hard, forget it. I'll just paint something in the top part. Or insert a picture in there.
man ... that is BEAUTIFUL!
now, how long till my iBook's warranty is up :ebc:
I have been considering painting my iBook. Its been out of waranty for quite a while, plus I broke the waranty a week after buying it via the dual display firmware hack The palm rest and such can be painted, but I am not sure how long it would last. The top and bottom are easy enough to paint, so long as you dont have an opaque iBook. If its opaque, then the paint most likely wont last.
They custom paint Apple laptops and iPods. For a price of course
So, on the subject of painting the middle palmrest hard opaque piece.. anyone think Krylon Fusion might be less prone to rubbing off? Or is it not that kind of plastic? I would think that would be the one part that would be more prone to being worn down.
The rest will be painted inside so it has no chance of being scratched off.
On the opaq iBooks, you are talking about the clear plastic I am assuming? All you have to do is take off the cover and scrape the backside with a razor blade to get all the paint off, then you re-paint the inside the color you want. I think I saw the owner of this site demonstrate it with the "cube" on The Screen Savers? I could be wrong...thats how you do it though.
for the clear ibooks, i believe rubbing alcohol works best to get the paint off and let the rubbing alcohol soak
makes the paint come off pretty well without scratching or anything
The writeups I've seen on stripping paint from the older white iBooks say that you soak the parts in isopropyl (i.e. rubbing) alcohol for many hours, and that you have to use a cotton swap (dipped in alcohol of course) to rub off the paint in a few stubborn areas.
It's probably worthwhile to use the purer 91% stuff than the regular 70%.
that would be for a clear iBook, the opaque models have a solid white piece of plastic
I've already mentioned numerous times I do have the clear model.
As for my "Palmrest" question, anyone have an answer about Fusion?
And what mixture of water to alcohol do I use?
Use it straight--don't dilute it.
Where can I find this so-called "Alcohol"? And I don't mean a bar.
Pactra was being recommended by Dr. Bob for a long time, but I haven't seen anything about the longterm quality on high-use areas (trackpad button) Pactra is basically a specialty paint used for painting the plastic bodies of model cars. It does a bonding thing like Fusion, but I don't know the chemical differences between the two. Fusion takes a long time to really have any strength. I did a test run of it on an old PB165, and it got chipped and marks by the time I got it together. If you do go with Fusion, be very patient and let the parts sit to CURE (not just dry) for as long as possible, ie. 1-2 weeks at a min. and 2-4 weeks preferable.
like you get in a paint store. Worked fast (seconds), didn't damage the plastic at all (it shouldn't, polycarbonate isn't affected by alcohol.) The isopropyl stuff I keep reading about is really weak. I mean, leaving it on for hours and then having to rub and rub . . . :?
just my ¥2,
Did the denatured also take off the text on the bottom panel, or did that survive? IIRC the isopropyl leaves that text.
You're brave. Denatured will destroy many plastics.
Didn't know polycarb was impervious to it. Good tip.
I was kinda sorta talking out my . . . errr, windy parts.
I just cleared the paint from a battery cover, not the actual iBook casing. So I don't know about the printing of which you speak. However, the battery cover does have some printing, the little circles around the battery lights and those were not removed by the alcohol. Is that printing similar to that on the main casing?
Sorry for extrapolating so carelessly!
Which plastics are affected by ethenol? Or is the problem the denaturing additive? I've used denatured on PowerBook plastics for years, on the ABS of older 'Books as well as the polycarb of new 'Books. I've never had any problems with any alcohol I've used. However, I always test in an inconspicous area first before using any solvent.