I've been working on re-capping and refurbishing the PSU in an original Apple II, serial number TODO. The saga is documented in full here.
However, my Dad and I have run into an issue:
- The power supply is model 820-0003-01
- Console5.com's Wiki has a mapping for model 820-0040-A (I bought their dynacomp kit).
You wouldn't think there would be much of an architectural shift from 820-0003 to 820-0040... but there is. The mapping shows two flat protection caps on the 820-0040 revision, but on ours, it seems like the 0.01uF protection caps are ceramic!
See photos:
A couple more notes:
The PSU has an NTC thermistor at its input, which is normal.
Those brown RFI caps are polypropylene film, not ceramic. 2.2 µF ±10%, and 1.0 µF ±10%. These values are very high, and will cause significant leakage current at the power point, which might trigger a GFCI or RCCB. The most common Astec model AA11040B uses 0.1 µF RFI capacitors.
Taken from the linked thread, is this a picture from your power supply?
The class X capacitor is hidden away inside that metal can at the IEC power inlet, but it might or might not warrant replacement depending on whether it's a paper film vs poly film capacitor.
Class X cap inside 820-0003.png
There's a lot of potentially-misleading lore about class X capacitors and whether they need replacement, but there's no harm in replacing it if you're unsure.
Here's the data sheet for that 6EF1 Power Inlet, but it doesn't disclose whether the capacitor is paper or polyester. It doesn't look like it was intended to be opened and serviced, does it?
Thank you! Neither of us had thought about that being anything more than an anachronistic power plug socket... But now we see it's actually a circuit inside.
We had a look, and it doesn't seem to be user-servicable. And so far it hasn't given up the magic smoke, so we'll just leave well enough alone and be happy about replacing all the other caps—and replacing the power switch, which the previous owner (my Dad's brother) had just bypassed when it broke decades ago.
Those other large brown flat caps that are not accounted for seem to be mylar film, and the jury's out whether they 'should' be replaced, reading through some vintage audio forums.
It sounds like they don't have the nasty failure mode of the RIFAs, and they won't leak like electrolytic. Any other opinions on those two caps? For now we're just leaving them in place as we don't have replacements.
They don't need replacement unless they fail -- just like when they were new.
Although any class X capacitor could fail explosively, the "exploding RIFA" problem is actually an unplanned problem with paper capacitors. The film inside a capacitor is supposed to function as an insulator, but we now know paper can become conductive as it ages. With the capacitor connected across the power line, unintended leakage current causes heat or pressure to build up until it ignites or explodes. Not intended.
This problem isn't unique to RIFA capacitors -- RIFA just happened to be a common brand of paper capacitors in vintage computers. In the vintage radio community the leaky paper capacitors tend to be other brands like Sprague or Sangamo.
Thanks for the all the info (both of you in this thread!).
We got everything tidied up, and the PSU seems to run just fine. It did before, but it's nice having all the electrolytics replaced and not having anything blow up still :)
Onward to the next problem(s)!