I tried to find information about this on the web, and couldn't...so I figured I'd come here. I have a wallstreet I with a 13.3 inch screen. A friend of mine is getting rid of his wallstreet II. Would the 14.1 inch screen from his powerbook work on mine? I assume it does, but I'd like to get confirmation before I start taking two computers apart. Thanks everyone!
IIRC the only problems with screens among the wallstreets is using anything but a 12.1" screen on the basement end mainstreet's motherboard (cacheless 233mhz version). Even that was a MLB/processor card problem and not a fault with the screen, which should work with any other wallstreet.
I doubt it but wouldn't switching Hard Drives be easier?
Not really. The Wallstreet II I can get ahold of is 266 mhz, and the Wallstreet I that I currently own is a 292 mhz model. I don't want to downgrade just for a bump in my screen size. Why wouldn't the screen swap work? Thanks!
Screen wouldnt work because DUH! It is like taking a 14.1 in round ball and putting it through a 13.3 in round hole. Common sense people.
You could switch the CPU and RAM and HD and CD and it still would be easier than switching LCDs.
The screen assembly will swap just fine. The bolt holes and connectors are identical on all of the WS screen assemblies.
Actually, flipy...I can't switch the CPU as the Wallstreet I and Wallstreet II have different bus speeds. You can't swap CPU's from these two machines. So, I'd appreciate it if you took your sarcasm elsewhere. I was only looking for a little friendly advice. I don't believe any criticism was warranted...
Flipy, swapping LCD assemblies is quite easy compared to swapping all the other components on a laptop. (I'm speaking from experience on pentium laptops, not powerbooks).
And a LOT of laptops had the same chassis with different sized LCD's.
I speedbumped my 233/512 WS to 300mhz, I imagine your friend's 266 processor ought to run at least that fast. Of course, the 292 can be speedbumped as well, only testing can discover how high it can go.
One consideration is the 83mhz bus on your 292 vs. the 66mhz bus of the 266, faster usually being better. Also, I forget and I'm too lazy to look it up, but are the video subsystems the same on those two LBs?
As other's have noted the screen assemblies are easily swapped, as is nearly every other part. The only parts which must stay together are the logic boards/processors.
In any case, it would be easy enough to benchmark one system against the other and base your choices on those results.
Yeah? Well the 13" and 14" have the same rez so what's the big idea? Sell the other WS if you don't have anything to do with it.
Actually, If this can be done, I'd liek to know because a guy wants to buy my 14" LCD for a broken-LCD 250MHz (not Kanga).
Those two displays use a different cable. The connector is the same, but it's in a different location. Swapping the entire LCD housing will work though as the other end is the same.
My Wallstreet 250, 13.3LCD, 192 RAM started acting up and I recently got around to it and got a 300 Mhz Processor and a Wallstreet series II motherboard. I knew that the only screen that wouldn't work was the 12" because it was a Passive matrix and the others (13.3 and 14.1) were Active Matrix. I was surprised to learn that the 300 MHZ processor was not compatible with the earlier logic board (although I should have researched it long ago), so I bought the series II logic board for it ( I had the VERY early original 66 MHZ Logic Board (before they went to the 83 mhz SB, then BACK to the 66!). I SHOULD have just bought an 83 Mhz logic board and a 292 Mhz processor.
The whole reason that I started the mini-upgrade was that the sound just DIED on me a while ago. System 8.6 works fine with no sound, but that is not an option for some reason with system 9.1.1 to 9.2.2 (System and bus errors in start up). SO, I ordered a used, tested Power/Sound board and went to put it in. Before I put it in, I plugged the jack in and to my angry astonishment, the ebay "company" who sold it to me had attempted a REPAIR on the board by resoldering the jack onto the board. I have found that if that is the only problem, it can be done, but it must be done as follows:
Try to remove all the old solder with a solder wick so you have a clean field in which to see and work.
Take some PLASTIC epoxy (made for plastics) and lightly coat the black plastic on the bottom of the jack then position the jack. While holding the jack in place, drip a small amount of epoxy in the hole in the circuit board that is beneath the circuit board. Usually this hole is filled with a black plastic nub from the bottom of the jack. If the nub is missing or it is present, still drip as much epoxy into the hole without overflowing more than a quarter inch around (a tiny puddle to secure it underneath. Hold it for a few minutes quietly in place.
As the glue sets, turn your attention to the two tiny tines of metal that come through the circuit board from the jack on the top. Looking at the bottom (and these metal tabs), DON'T bend them over. Just take them as is and apply at least a 35 watt or higher soldering iron to one of the tabs and touch the tab with the solder. It will run down to the circuit board, forming a small puddle around the tab and the hole that the tabe goes through. Repeat on the other side.
Turn your attention to the top side of the board. The glue should be good and hard and holding the jack firmly by now. Notice the three little copper bands coming down from the back of the jack to the circuit board. As they meet the board, they are bent into little "feet." You must get solder to flow between the metal surface of the board connection and each "foot." Use solder sparingly, but use enough to cement the feet tabs to the board solidly, making sure that there is absolutely NO solder between the three contacts and that each one remains separate.
Good luck and anyone who knows anything about the video anomalies or incompatibilities with the series II LB, please let me know, okay?
Thanks every so much!
How'd ya get it "speedbumped?" Heard the term, but don't know how it is done. Any help would be appreciated.
Oh, the very first Wallstreets (I call them the Series .5) had a 66Mhz board and I hooked a 300 Mhz Processor from a series II the other day and it was just fine. Now, I am installing a USB PC Card and a Firewire PC Card. Can I install Panther with the USB card installed or does it have to be natively USB?
Man, Flipy wasn't too bright, now was he? Sarcasm does not mix well with a lack of knowledge. It just looks pathetic. Brain transplants are being pioneered as we speak, so t here's hope yet. George W. Bush would be my first "nominee" though.;D
¡Via Con El Diablo!
good place to start: