I found an iMac Summer 2001 edition--500mhz Snow--on the side of the road. Put a harddrive in, plugged it in, pushed the button on my USB Keyboard, absolutely nothing--no indications of the power coming on in any way (left it upside down with the case off). Replaced the dead battery with a new one, still nothing. Machine is clean as a whistle--like new. One thing, I'm not sure how the power button works on this model. Looks like it may be missing the plastic ring that gets pushed that I remember on the older models that was there when you removed the bottom case. Any suggestions of things to try or things to do with it before I put it back on the street? thanks
Anonymous
User login
Please support the defense of Ukraine.
Direct or via Unclutter App
Active forum topics
Recent content
Navigation
No Ads.
No Trackers.
No Social Media.
All Content Locally Hosted.
Built on Free Software.
We have complied with zero government requests for information.
I don't think iMacs built after 1999 (five flavor slotloaders) booted from the keyboard power button. I could easily be wrong on the cutoff date, but it was somewhere in that vicinity.
That model uses the front button to start, the keyboard button won't do the trick. I found this out for myself when I replaced my daughter's 400SL MLB with a Summer '01 600MHz jobbie.
If the power button seems to be problematic, you could just short the power button switch connection. Or not. Hmm, I forget what other wires might be hanging on that thing, LEDs and stuff.
dan k
... someone else had found the same behaviour and junked it. Replacement of the PRAM battery was therefore essential, as also was resetting the PMU.
To recover your position you now need to remove the battery and the mains power, and to let the iMac stand thus for at least 10min. Overkill, but who's in a hurry? Replace the mains cable, but don't switch on at the wall yet. The PMU is extremely sensitive to electrostatic destruction. Replace the battery. Press the red CUDA-like PM switch near the RAM slots once for about 1sec., and once only, or you will not only undo your good work but also have a dead battery by next morning. Keep yourself grounded and your paws clear of all circuitry near the switch. Now you can reassemble and power up, or power up without the case if you want to check further.
My Summer 2000 Snow 500 DV-SE iMacs (2) have been always-on since new, with their rear feet elevated on wooden blocks of at least 18mm to assist that dratted convective cooling. An Indigo 500 has a 40mm lift, partly to get its screen vertical in my sound rack. Many iMacs of similar vintage are expiring now from overheating, especially of the FBT, during the last 6-7 years. You have the chance to check this, if necessary, by mirroring video from the rear HDB-15 port during your testing.
de